An introduction into the world of the catenary in the prototype and in model railroading. A detailed description is given with many tips to build and use t. easily with Märklin Start up – a world of model trains rich in variety in which coupling with a guide mechanism between the locomotive and the tender. There is and enables you to set up signals or catenary masts. This. For stability as well as uniformity, all catenary must be the new style Märklin catenary, along with module as a guide how you fill in the difference is up to you.
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View and Download Marklin user manual online. working catenary. Toy pdf manual download. Which shows marklin catenary manual for ho books available. Viessman - A guide to installing echecs16.info (kb) downloaded time(s). Märklin Digital - the new dimension for model railroad operations. 2 .. At that time the catenary network did not reach to ends commonly known today. Hamburg.
You don't want to have to resolder something in a hidden area unless it is totaly accesible like in another room where you have easy access plus it is a waste of time and resources. There are two ways I have used. This assumes that your pantograph will not have a clearance problem somewhere else. Before it come out just reverse the procedure so the pantograph can ride down the wire to the correct height. In actuality I used a piece of rail for the sloping sections. That worked so well that on my hidden staging yards that are really return loops I intend to use brass rail soldered to a rail spanning all tracks and supported about every other track.
Secondly, commence your catenary set-up at the end of the switch blades of a turnout. This will minimize the number of adjustment sections you will undoubtedly require as you come across more turnouts and crossings. Thirdly, for masts on curves, use a number greater than recommended by Marklin, if you can afford it.
In other words, use shorter catenary lengths as it makes for less troublesome operation. The Marklin catenary masts are supplied with a sheet metal clip base with holding tongue which fits and holds purposefully under C track road bed. At widened track bed at turnouts and crossings, I simply broke off the holding tongue and used the metal base. Or you could just as easily straighten the end of the metal holding tongue, and secure the mast by a screw at the other end.
The straightened tongue would help to hold it vertical. The mast has a plastic base which simply slides into the metal base, and it is this plastic part that has a countersunk hole for securing with a screw. The is a specially built box section catenary wire to cover double slips and crossovers.
While I used it to cover the slip and crossing, I assume it would be suitable for the long crossing and the short crossing. Marklin state that for each of the four legs of the wire, you require a adjustment wire.
This is no longer correct, nor necessary.
The as currently supplied includes adjustment guides built in to each of the four legs of wire. When setting up the catenary routes, I found the mast positioning jig, very useful and because of its accuracy, I highly recommend it. Without it, I placed masts at a running error of up to 10mm, and this makes for horrible running consequences.
I also built a special car called a wire positioning car.
This was built up from a discarded covered vehicle, and the principal of construction can be seen from the photographs. Again, this is part of a logical system for model train control.
It is connected to the track layout with the terminal track. One rail is connected with red wire to the red connection of the transformer and the other connection is made with a brown wire.
This issue is discussed here. You will find the equivalent figure of mm to be much easier to use than the fractional inches shown above.
Please note that when talking about track circles, we usually talk in terms of the radius the distance from the center of the track element to the center of the circle of the track, so the circle of track that came with the starter set is mm radius, half of the diameter.
You may wonder why there are different curved pieces in the starter set. All the pieces are built to follow the radius of mm. Yet one type of mm radius curved track is longer than the other. As you have discovered, these pieces can be fit together in any order to form the completed circle, but when you add the straight pieces of track, you have to set the curves up more carefully so that things come out even.
The reason for the mixture of curved pieces becomes more apparent when you add the various track extension sets. There is one more curved piece, the Unlike the other track pieces, this section does not form a complete circle. Rather, it is a compensation piece, designed to be used with the track switches and crossings.
That allows you to place a station platform between the tracks. This is quite helpful if you plan to do a station scene with more than one station track. Automation Track Pieces There are several track pieces which are used with signals and relays for automated operation.
You can take a section of track and cut it, or you can use the , an adjustable track section. This piece literally expands or contracts to fit spaces ranging from mm to mm in length.
Flexible Track The track section is the equivalent of six pieces of or three pieces of This is very helpful when you have long lengths of tangent track. The can be bent into a curve if you cut the bottom of the crossties a small instruction pamphlet is included with the track , and it can be cut to specific lengths.
The allows you to create flowing curves with a natural appearance. Turnouts We often use the word turnout to describe a track switch. Turnout is a civil engineering term that describes a track section in which the train can go either straight, or turn out. We use the word turnout in model railroading to mean this piece of track, not an electrical control switch.
The typical turnout has both a curved and a straight element. A pair of moving points choose whether a train follows the straight portion or follows the curved portion. This means that from one end of the turnout, looking toward the straight and diverging routes that the train can take, the diverging route turns out to the left or right.
The turnout is what really makes railroads fascinating, for it affords the train opportunities to go in different directions, to do different things. The remote turnouts can be operated either manually or by remote turnout.
More about remote operation in the electrical pages. The is on the left above and the is on the right.
The and have the same track geometry. Internally, the remote turnout has two coils of wire; when one coil has electric current passed through it, a small slug of metal is drawn toward the coil, causing the moving points of the turnout to go into position. The moving points of the turnout will stay there until an electric current is passed through the other coil or the turnout is thrown by hand , which will move the points over to the other position.
It is very important to note that the current which flows through these coils should be momentary; that is to say, the current should not run through the coil longer than absolutely necessary to align the points. Should the current continue to flow for more than a few seconds, heat will build up in the coil, causing it to burn out. There are replacement parts for these coils, so all is not lost should an accident happen.